I’ve been busy racing and working. I have taken quite a few track videos. While I forget to post updates on my sight, please take my apologies, and enjoy some videos.
When we got the LS1 out of a 1997 corvette we had no idea how many miles it had. Hell we didn't know it even ran. We told the guy selling it on craigslist “when you show up with the motor we’ll test is and then we’ll decide to buy it”. This was a bluff. We assumed just by showing up he knew the motor was good. We slapped it in the Miata and ran hard for the last 5 years. Needless to say it’s time to rebuild it..
We took some time to figure out a simple issue. How do we keep engine oil out of the back seat of the jeep? We bought a harbor freight trailer and built an engine stand that will work with the trailer.
Finished up and the motor delivered to john’s shop in TN.
John was filtering in photos from the build.
The skirts are scraped up.
A little nick from the valves on the piston. These pistons are not going to work. The vales should be replaced too…
|John removed the old beat up pistons. The early ls1 cast
pistons are huge and weight in at 578.7 grams. |
Our new pistons are a lightweight when compared to the old ones. These Probe pistons come in at just 498.0 grams. A savings of 80 Grams
Johns going to have some fun pulling 640 grams out of the crank.
Updates, JB Racing engine has been working like a top. Power is fantastic, he dialed back some mid-range TQ to give me more top end and a higher top speed. We are now hitting 150mph @ road Atlanta. Same top speed as a corvette ZR1.
We did have some minor blow by and crank case issues during the first race, john said it was normal and he was right. By the 2nd race the blow by issues where gone.
Step 1. Get the right parts...
|LTB momo bolt on quick release hub. |
|sparco hub: miata spline-to- sparco and momo bolt pattern.|
|A New Steering column from http://www.partsgroup.com/ thanks TOM! |
For extra cleanliness we painted it flat black.
What not to do: All steering wheel quick release mechanisms will develop play. How long it takes depends on use. Our car does 29-30 events a year. A quick release in our miata needs to be replaced after a year. You can see the welded unit on the end of our column.
|Photo credit speed hunters.|
Corvette racing uses a OEM tilt column for divers changes. This will exponentially increase the life of a quick release hub.
| step 1 column to hub. All Mazda columns W/Sparco hubs get the TQ spec at 33ft lbs.|
|After that: Tighten up the momo Quick release to the sparco hub. I use german specs for this. AKA goot-in`tight|
Collapsible- just means the item is engineered to fail in a certain way. With steering equipment it is meant to absorb the energy of an impact.
After the wheel was installed on the column, we installed the column in the car.
I like to call my cockpit the “industrial look”.
steering column- http://www.partsgroup.com/
momo/sparco hub - http://www.ogracing.com/momo-steering-wheel-hub-adapter-mazda-miata
quick release - http://ltbautosports.com/ltbquicrelsp.html
When the LS1 miata project was started the chassis had just over 250,000 miles on it. That was the #1 reason for seam welding. Some time has passed and it was determined that it would be a good idea to replace everything. *Enter V8 Roadsters*
V8 Roadster makes the LS1-into-mitata sub frame. Along with other swap items. The current OEM control arms had a grotesque amount of miles on them. In a quest to remove anything on the car that came with it. ( a goal that we reach closer to everyday) we opted for the v8-r A-arms.
Unlike a-arms out of a junk yard, these had 0 miles on them. They are not totally worn out. One thing that boggles the mind is why do people buy old clapped out race cars? You'll need to replace everything on it anyway. If you're replacing everything, you might as well build a one. end rant-- onward!
The new A-arms where installed toot sweet! Also the Diff was rebuilt with a 3.23 gear.
We set the suspension at 954 racing's specs of 3.5* camber (F) and 3* camber (R) 0 toe. We managed to find 8* of caster. That's right 8* of caster. On your stock miata you would be lucky to get 3*. The new A-Arms have a ridiculous amount of adjustment. For auto x we might trade some caster for extra camber. Where we are going we want the extra stability. It's nice to know you have choices..
To test them, we ran a little track in Northern Florida. I'm sure no one's ever heard of it. leave your guesses in the comments..
With the new suspension settings and the reduced bind from the suspension. we picked up 0.2G's on turns. The little monster is now pushing 1.0g's on street tires. Before this the max we could muster was .8g. all data was recorded by an AIM Smarty cam and SOLO DL.
Allot of people like to use 954's box suspension settings, we wouldn't recommend their set-up on a over powered miata. They like to fiddle with the rear tow to get the car to rotate. on a under powered car that might be necessary. A v8 car doesn't need any help rotating. We have power to rotate. rear tow shouldn't be messed with. your playing with alot of drag, and possible wonky handling.
A good set up using v8 roadsters control arms is listed below. This is the same setup used to get 225/45r15 BFG rivals to hold over 1G (a spec miata with a slick can hold about 1.2g)
Super speedway 160+ mph - sounds funny on a miata hua?
Road coarse or auto x. This set up for anything that isn't an R-oval.